Thursday, July 28, 2011
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Learn How to Properly Open and Close Jump Rings
In order to create great chainmaille, you have to be able to open and close jump rings properly. This video shows you the proper techinique for opening and closing jump rings. Using the correct techinque keeps your jump rings nice and round and keeps them from becoming distorted when you work with them.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Centipede Bracelet Tutorial Now Available
If you have been interested in chain mail but afraid to try, this easy variation of the European 4 in 1 is fun to learn and will give you stunning results. As a bonus I have thrown in an easy earring pattern you can create with your left overs! You can get the tutorial for this and many more wonderful jewelry projects on the website www.jewelrylessons.com . The specific link for this tutorial is: http://www.jewelrylessons.com/tutorial/centipede-chain-mail-bracelet-bonus-earrings .
Friday, March 6, 2009
Learn to Make European 4 in 1 Chainmaille

CGI Video Demonstration of European 4 in 1:
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Learn How to Etch Copper, Bronze, Brass, and Aluminum

I have a new tutorial available at http://www.jewelrylessons.com/jewel/node/15673 that teaches you how to etch copper, bronze, brass, and aluminum using muriatic acid and hydrogen perioxide. Etching metal may seem intimidating, but it is actually quite easy and can allow you to create unique one-of-a-kind designs. Anything you can draw, or any picture, photo, or pattern you like can be copied onto metal. Traditionally ferric chloride has been the mordant, or acid, that has been used to etch copper, brass, and bronze. However, it is relatively expensive and sometimes hard to find. Muriatic acid, or hydrochloric acid, works just as well and is considerably less expensive. Muriatic acid can be found at your local hardware store, usually in the pool care section of the store. The resist is the portion of the design that won't be eaten away by the acid. Just about anything can be used as resist as long as it "resists" water. Permanent marking pens, nail polish, duct tape, vinyl stickers, Stazon stamping ink, etc. may all be used. With the advent of photocopiers and laser printers, a technique was developed that allows the use of more complex designs. A high contrast, black and white image can be copied onto an overhead transparency and then transferred onto the metal with an iron. The focus of this tutorial will be using the overhead transparency method of image transfer and muriatic acid to etch metal.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Learn How to Make a Byzantine Chain

The Byzantine weave is a variation of the Box chain and can be thought of as an alternating Box chain. This is another easy to learn weave and is great for someone just getting their start in chainmaille. As with all chainmaille, it is crucial that the correct ring sizes are used when creating your chain. For this particular weave the recommended ring sizes are as follows:
- 22 gauge, Inner Diameter: 2.5mm
- 20 gauge, Inner Diameter: 3.0mm - 3.5mm
- 18 gauge, Inner Diameter: 3.5mm - 4.0mm
- 16 gauge, Inner Diameter: 4.5mm - 5.0mm
Watch the great video below from www.jewelrysupply.com to see exactly how easy it is to create a beautiful chain with a few simple steps.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Learn to Make a Box Chain

The Box Chain is one of the easiest chainmaille weaves to learn. I have found a video created by the folks at www.jewelrysupply.com that does a great job of showing you the easy steps involved in making this simple, yet lovely chain. In the video they recommend using 18 gauge 7 mm inner diameter rings. Rings smaller than 18 gauge in diameter are not recommended when used for heavy wear. I agree with their recommendation whole heartedly. The watch I have pictured in today's blog was one I made for myself using 22 gauge sterling silver jump rings. While the watch band turned out beautifully, it was not heavy enough to stand up to every day wear and the rings ended up pulling apart after a few months of wear. It was one of my first chainmaille projects, and I was not experienced enough to know better! Don't make my mistake. It is always a good idea to find out recommended ring sizes before starting a project. Here some links for websites with recommended ring sizes for particular weaves: http://www.venomspit.com/ and the Maille Artisans website at http://www.mailleartisans.org/articles/subcat.cgi?key=5 .
Enjoy the video below. It beautifully illustrates the steps in making a box chain.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Learn To Make Your Own Jump Rings
For a great free tutorial that teaches you how to create jump rings using cutters look at www.jewelrylessons.com or use the following link: http://jewelrylessons.com/jewel/node/14209
To learn how to make saw cut jump rings, watch the following video from Art Jewelry Magazine:
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Video Demonstration Of How To Make A Simple Soldered Ring
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Make-a-Ring--in-Few-Simple-Steps-2152
For techniques you can use to give your newly created ring a little personality look here:
http://www.5min.com/Video/Upgrading-a-Ring-You-Have-Made-2162
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Wire Work Secrets Jewelry Making Tutorial Lesson 1: Jump Ring Crash Course Instructional Video
From WireWorkSecrets.com, this jewelry making tutorial video is Lesson 1 in the free 5 lesson video e-course Wire Work Lessons. More free wire working lessons available at wireworksecrets.com Learn pro jewelry tips and tricks.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Learn How to Hand Knot a Beaded Necklace

rest to your work. Thread is available with needles already attached to make life even easier.Photo courtesy www.azuretreasures.etsy.com
Watch the video below from www.jewelrysupply.com for step by step instruction on knotting between beads. All you need is a few beads, beading string, a needle, and a pair of tweezers.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
How to Make Personalized Metal Jewelry

If you've ever wanted to learn how to make personalized metal jewelry, you can find out how by watching the wonderful instructional videos made by Lisa Niven Kelly from beaducation. In these videos you will learn all the basics of stamping on metal. In this demo, Lisa discusses the necessary tools and teaches you how to make a pendant by stamping on a metal blank, punching a hole, and oxidizing. So get out your letter stamps, bench block, and hammer and stamp away! Learn how to make a stamped pendant for jewelry making. Check out www.beaducation.com for supplies and more educational videos.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Make Your Own Headpins
Another method for creating a unique headpin is to use wire wrapping. A free tutorial is available on www.jewelrylessons.com to show you how to make a simple, but interesting headpin. You can find it at this link: http://jewelrylessons.com/jewel/node/3139

Monday, January 26, 2009
King's Scale Tutorial Now Available

Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Use Aluminum Foil and Baking Soda To Quickly Clean Your Sterling Silver Jewelry
- Gather all of your tarnished pieces together and place them in a plastic or glass dish that you have lined with aluminum foil. Make sure that all of the silver touches the aluminum.
- Sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda over your jewelry.
- Pour enough boiling water over the jewelry to immerse it completely. Bubbling should occur. After the bubbling begins you should notice a rotten egg like smell as sulfuric gases are released by the cleaning action.
- Stir the jewelry with a wooden spoon to make sure all of the silver comes in contact with the aluminum foil. Continue stirring until all of your silver is clean and shiny.
- Remove the silver and rinse it with tap water. Be sure to close the drain so that you don't lose any small pieces like an earring!
- Rub your jewelry dry with a soft cloth.
Tips and Warnings:
To prevent or slow future tarnishing store your jewelry in air tight plastic bags. You can get anti-tarnish strips or moisture absorbent packets to place in the bags to further slow down tarnishing.
This method of cleaning may be harmful to certain gemstones, for example, turquoise. I have used it with pearls and had good luck. But if you are in doubt, try using a polishing cloth designed specifically for cleaning sterling silver such as a Sunshine Cloth.
Here is a link for a video demonstrating the technique:
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/160769_clean-sterling-silver-jewelry.htm
Sunday, January 18, 2009
www.1000 Markets.com

Today I discovered a new website (at least new to me!) dedicated to selling handmade artisan goods. What makes this site different is that you have a blog attached directly to your shop, allowing your customers to get to know you and get a feel for your personality. This also gives you the opportunity to give your customers some fun facts about how your jewelry is made and what makes it special. Listing items is free on www.1000markets.com . The items are checked out through Amazon. Amazon will then take out take a 5.5% cut plus 50 cents at the time of payment.
I got busy today setting up a shop and am waiting to see if my shop gets it's final approval. (Keeps fingers crossed.) I did find several nice jewelry shops that I thought I would share with you.
Here is a lovely pendant created by Tangerine Treehouse:

http://www.1000markets.com/users/tangerinetreehouse
Here is another lovely necklace from Stone House Studio:

http://www.1000markets.com/users/stonehousestudio
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Etsy Shop Now Open!
Chainmaille Cross Earrings available at www.simplydevinedesigns.etsy.com. A tutorial will be available soon for these earrings at www.jewelrylessons.com.I finally made the plunge and have opened an Etsy shop called Simply Devine Designs. Look for it at http://www.simplydevinedesigns.etsy.com/. I will also be creating tutorials for the new website http://www.jewelrylessons.com/. This great new website was created by Eni Onken and has some fantastic jewelry designs and wonderful how-to's from a group of talented jewelry designers including Delia Stone. I plan on creating tutorials for some of my chainmaille designs including the cross earring design pictured above and a vertebrae chainmaille design that is a variation of the European 4 in 1.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Creating Color on Metal: Patinas
Patina is defined as a film that is formed naturally on metal by long exposure to the elements or artificially as by acids or oxidation and is valued aesthetically for its color. On copper or bronze a patina tends to be either or green or blue in color and on sterling silver gray or black.
When creating a piece of jewelry you should consider whether to patinate or oxidate before starting work on the piece. Soldering and pickling will remove most coloration, so create any color after you have finished all such work. If you will only be drilling the piece, then you may feel free to patina the work at the outset.
It is very important when preparing a piece for patination that it is cleaned properly for coloration. The metal should be free of all oils from your hands. Water should stand evenly on the surface and not bead up on it like raindrops on your car after it has been waxed. To get the metal thoroughly clean, you can anneal it, pickle it, and rinse it with water. Alternately, you can clean the metal with pumice paste or with a glass brush. Any excess solder should be filed and cleaned away.
Patinating Copper
Deep Red Patina
- Clean both sides of your metal under running water with wet-and-dry paper.
- Paste both sides with a flux paste – either borax flux, or a powder flux.
- Heat the copper on one side until it glows orange. Turn it over and heat the
other side to the same color. Then quench it in water and pickle for a few minutes.
- The copper should be a beautiful red-purple color. If it is not, simply repeat.
- Gently polish or lightly oil the copper with either jade oil or soft beeswax.
Blue Patina
- Fill a small saucer with household ammonia.
- Cover the copper salt.
- Dampen the salt with water or vinegar.
- Place the copper and the saucer with the ammonia with in an airtight container.
- Allow the copper to sit for several hours to several days. Remove when the desired coloration is reached.
Green-Blue Patina
- Fill a sealable plastic container with either sawdust or tobacco.
- Add enough of the following solution, one part vinegar to three parts household ammonia, to just dampen your sawdust.
- Clean your copper by annealing, pickling, and running under water. Let dry.
- Place the copper in the sawdust mixture and cover completely. Seal the container and leave for at least one hour to several days until the desire finish is reached.
Black Patina
- Take a piece of Liver of Sulfur, about the size of your finger nail, and dissolve it in a cup or more of warm water.
- Heat the piece of metal to be treated and then dip in the Liver of Sulfur solution.
- Rinse in water after each dip until you reach your final desired color.
- The piece may be sanded lightly and polished. Raised areas will show the original color of the metal, recessed areas will remained blackened.
- Be sure to wear gloves and protective clothing when working with Liver of Sulfur. The fumes are dangerous and it should be used with good ventilation and covered right after use. It must not be allowed to come in contact with acids as a toxic gas is then rapidly evolved.
Patinating Silver
While Liver of Sulfur is usually used to form a black or gray patina on silver, there are a number of intermediate interference colors formed, especially if a weak solution is used. These include yellow, reddish brown, purple and blue. Some people recommend adding a small amount of household ammonia to the solution claiming it intensifies the lovely blue-green-red-purple interference colors one gets when using a dilute solution and slow approach. These pretty colors are not very stable over time because they continue to react with sulfur in the air and darken. You can sometimes 'save' them by spraying a lacquer over them. They may be retained if the surface is properly sealed. Acrylic resin is the recommended sealer for durability and resistance to darkening in light. Some jeweler’s lacquers also work. Envirotex® works very well for this.
Using Liver of Sulfur on Silver
1. Take a piece of Liver of Sulfur, about the size of your finger nail, and dissolve it in a cup or more of warm water.
2. Heat the piece of metal to be treated and then dip in the Liver of Sulfur solution.
3. Rinse in water after each dip. While Liver of Sulfur is usually used to obtain gray and black colors on silver, there are a number of intermediate interference colors formed, especially if a weak solution is used. These include yellow, reddish brown, purple and blue. Some people recommend adding a small amount of household ammonia to the solution claiming it intensifies the lovely blue-green-red-purple interference colors one gets when using a dilute solution and slow approach. These pretty colors are not very stable over time because they continue to react with sulfur in the air and darken. You can sometimes 'save' them by spraying an appropriate lacquer over them. They may be retained if the surface is properly sealed. Acrylic resin is the recommended sealer for durability and resistance to darkening in light. Some jeweler’s lacquers also work. Envirotex® works very well for this.
4. The piece may be sanded lightly and polished. Raised areas will show the original color of the metal, recessed areas will remained blackened.
5. Be sure to wear gloves and protective clothing when working with Liver of Sulfur. The fumes are dangerous and it should be used with good ventilation and covered right after use. It must not be allowed to come in contact with acids as a toxic gas is then rapidly evolved.
Reference: The Jeweler's Directory of Decorative Finishes, From Enameling and Engraving to Inlay and Granulation By Jinks McGrath
Links:
For a Free Tutorial on Copper and Brass Patinas Go to JewelryLessons.com or use the following link:
http://www.jewelrylessons.com/jewel/node/6697
For a great article discussing the use of Liver of Sulfur: